The Quarters

Today was my first official shabat in Israel. Technically it started yesterday at sundown and ended today once you could see three stars in the sky (Apparently on cloudy days the way you tell is by holding two pieces of string, one black and one white, next to each other. Once you can no longer tell the difference between them, shabat is over). Last night they had a big shabat dinner at a fancy hotel within walking distance of our campus. It was fun to see everyone dressed up. I thought it was necessary to wear a skirt, but it seemed like as long as you looked nice, it was ok. Maybe it is different at someone's home. We (and by that I mean everyone else who actually knew them) said all the prayers and we all drank out of a wine glass and ate some hallah (which I discovered today is particularly delicious with Nutella). They also tried to lead songs but people were less enthusiastic about that part. After that, I just went to bed. They only turn the hot water on at certain times, so you have to be very strategic about your showers here. 

This morning I woke up and tried to practice some Hebrew. I want to have my alphabet down for the first day (tomorrow). After that we decided to walk down to the Old City- you can't take a bus because everything is shut down today. Most people won't use electricity, spend money or do any sort of work. It is actually incredibly refreshing. It was explained to me as a day to appreciate your connection with God and the world he created. It's so amazing to be in a place where everyone is so committed to the same idea. There were a lot of walkers and no stores or restaurants were open. Even the internet I have been stealing from my neighbors was turned off this morning. Apparently you aren't even supposed to check your email or anything like that. 

On the walk, I was initially wearing jeans but at the last minute changed into a long black dress and cardigan which was a VERY good choice. Not only did it make everyone around me more comfortable, it also made me feel more comfortable. My hair calls enough attention to me as it is. English is useful because so many people understand it, but at the same time it automatically labels you as an American. Although wearing modest clothing doesn't disguise my nationality, it makes people much more respectful. I'm not sure if this is true, but it felt like people were much less likely to try and scam you if you at least try to fit in. There were a lot of obvious tourists who had a much harder time getting directions and  seemed much more awkward. 

The walk was really really interesting. We are actually very close to the Old City but you can't go directly there, as you have to walk through a very poor Arab neighborhood. You also can't walk into just any gate because the Old City is divided up into quarters. There is the Christian, Armenian, Muslim, and Jewish Quarters. You are not supposed to go through the Armenian or Muslim Quarters. In a lot of places it is ok, because it is a market with lots of people but it is very easy to get into neighborhoods where people are not happy to see tourists... especially light skinned ones. The city is so windey that it is hard to keep your directions straight and there are no clear dividing lines to it is very easy to end up somewhere you shouldn't be. You just always have to be aware of what is going on around you.. what people are wearing, their countenance, what the shops are selling, etc. Because it was shabat, the Jewish Quarter was very quiet and you could not take pictures (this is considered doing work) so we mostly stuck to the Christian Quarter.

The Christian Quarter was incredible. It was much more ornate and well kept than the other quarters. There were a lot of churches. We finally found the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, which is where Jesus' tomb is and where he was crucified. It was unbelievably ornate. I went into the tomb which was a very small room with a stone that people kept kissing and a picture of Jesus. The two people I was with (Jewish) did NOT want to go in. The thing about the old city that is so amazing is how many things are packed into such a tight space. There is incredible juxtaposition everywhere you look- between religions, between eras, between people. It is just unbelievable. It seems like you can just walk around a corner and find anything. It's like there are all these little treasures hidden all over- there are no signs so it is almost impossible to get to anything directly. You are always wandering and running into these back alleys and all sorts of people who refuse to interact with each other but live feet away. Unbelievable.  

Today we also stopped by the Wall again. This time we actually went down and I got to touch it. I was so glad to be wearing a long black dress. I blended in and felt ok, going all the way up to the wall next to where people were praying. There is a huge stand full of prayer books which people take and read (or recite from memory) as they lean against the wall. There are two separate sides for men and women and the women's side is about a quarter of that of the mens. There are tons of little pieces of paper with prayers, thoughts, etc. on them stuffed into the wall. It makes it seem like the wall is overflowing/growing when you first look at it. You have to walk away from the wall backwards, you can't just turn and walk away. It is so incredible to touch something so old. Just to think about all the people who have stood in that exact spot is amazing. I can't imagine what it would be like to come there everyday and base your entire life around this place and it's history. It is pretty incredible. It makes me understand why people are so unwilling to budge in this conflict. It really isn't about the people alive today- it is about the generations and generations. It would be so hard to surrender something that so many people had died to protect. It's not really their choice. Who are they to assume the responsibility of surrendering this place that has been fought over throughout the generations? And I'm sure I am only seeing the very tip of the iceberg.

I am so appreciative that I have six months to explore this place. I can't imagine "doing" Jerusalem in one day, or even a week. There is something amazing about living here and being able to go to these sacred places again and again, until you really get a feel for them- not just to see them. I feel so lucky and wish I was a better photographer. Hopefully my next post will be in Hebrew. Sorry this was so long. Everything is too incredible to leave something out. Love!